Resort 23 - Marques'Almeida

Until their spring 2023 show, Paulo Almeida and Marta Marques had never looked to the 1980s for design cues. "Our biggest inspiration has always been the 1990s, where everything [was] kind of effortless and raw, a kind of realistic approach to fashion," Marques explained via WhatsApp after the brand's show in Portugal, where they're now based. They always thought of the '80s as a time of excess, and "power dressing, like this whole idea of femininity in a very glamorized way."

So how did they end here? Their starting point was the Memphis Design Group, which rose to fame in the 1980s for an aesthetic that favored primary colors and unusual patterns and shapes for everything from textiles to furniture design to interiors. "We started looking into the Memphis movement and then, obviously, Grace Jones and the Black queer aesthetics of the '80s, and (saw] how lit was actually incredibly empowering and incredibly rebellious, but done through joy, she added.